When wine connoisseurs consider the different vintages of Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion, they recognize them as some of the greatest wines in the world. Many collectors and enthusiasts consider the estate the sixth, First Growth of Bordeaux. La Mission Haut-Brion is one of the jewels of the Domaine Clarence Dillon, as well as Pessac-Leognan.

The history of La Mission Haut-Brion is one that has been linked to neighboring Chateau Haut-Brion throughout its existence. The estate came into being after it was purchased by Jean de Pontac in 1533. Pontac was also the owner of what later became Chateau Haut-Brion. Pontac was responsible for the birth of several of the best estates and vineyards in Bordeaux.

La Mission Haut-Brion earned its fame and moniker, when Arnaut de Lestonnac and the sister of Jean de Pontac were married. The estate was inherited by Olive Lestonnac who bequeathed it to the Congregation of the Mission, which was finalized in 1664. The 10 hectare estate became the property of the Roman Catholic Church and was named Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion.

Interestingly, the wine produced was not reserved for the Clergy but was sold, which helped to cement the vineyard’s reputation among consumers in those early days of its existence. In 1698, a small chapel was built in the vineyards, known as Notre Dame de La Mission. The official chateau was constructed some years later in 1713. The estate remained in possession of the church until it was seized by the state, during the French Revolution.

In 1815, La Mission would become the property of American owner, the Chiapelle family, who were already quite involved in the Bordeaux wine trade, owning and managing multiple estates including Chateau Cos d’Estournel in the Saint Estephe appellation. The family is famous for constructing the gates that guard the historic property today. The estate would continue to change hands until 1919 when it fell into possession of another American owner, the Woltner family. The Woltners completed major renovations to the property, including the removal of old fermentation vats, replacing them with more modern stainless steel tanks. They are also credited for the creation of La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc which debuted in 1927.

Once again, La Mission would come full circle and become under the ownership of neighboring estate, Chateau Haut-Brion. Clarence Dillon rapidly re-modernized the chateau and winemaking facilities. His efforts to improve the property and winemaking were ever-continuing, leading to a new bottling line and extensive renovations in the Grand Chai (barrel storeroom).

Today the vineyard spans 30.7 hectares which has 27 hectares planted for red wine grapes and 3.7 hectares designated to white wine grape varieties. The 27 hectares are planted to 45.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43.8% Merlot and 10.4% Cabernet Franc, while the 3.7 hectares of vines for whites are planted to 61.7% Semillon and 38.3% Sauvignon Blanc. The varietals thrive in a terroir of deep gravel over clay, sand and chalk, with a subsoil of deep gravel, clay and sand. The vineyard is well placed on 2 ridges of gravel hills reaching up to 25 meters in elevation and have wonderful drainage. It is flanked by two streams, Ars and Peugue which help provide moisture in hot, dry vintages. Despite its proximity to Chateau Haut-Brion (across the road) the terroir is dissimilar, giving them distinctly different character and style.

La Mission Haut-Brion produces between 6,000 and 7,000 cases annually and another 1,000 cases of La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. The wine needs at least 15-25 years for it to reveal its true potential and will reach peak maturity between 15-60 years after the vintage. The property produces an outstanding second wine, La Chapelle La Mission Haut-Brion, which debuted in 1991 and has proved to be of incredible quality, with a smaller price tag.

another 20-30+ years of life ahead of it. It’s no secret that the great vintages of Bordeaux have levels of fruit extract and depth that go beyond other years. It is this fruit, often referred to as “fat” or “concentration,” that takes decades to dissipate and fade. As it does so, the extraordinary aromatic expression of the terroir asserts itself. Remarkably, the 1982 is still in late adolescence and has not yet reached its peak. Early in my career, much of my reputation was established on calling this vintage correctly, but I never in my wildest dreams thought the 1982s would mature as slowly and last as long as some seem capable of doing. One of the handful of perfect wines of the vintage, the La Mission still possesses a remarkably dense ruby/purple color with only a slight garnet and lightening at the edge. The fruit-dominated aromatics reveal lots of cassis, blueberry, scorched earth, black truffle, incense, graphite and high-class, unsmoked cigar tobacco-like notes. Still exhibiting remarkable concentration, enormous body, silky sweet tannin, and no perceptible acidity, the 1982 remains fresh, delineated and super-compelling. A massive La Mission made by the Dewravin family and their winemakers, all of whom were dismissed the following year when the estate was acquired by Haut-Brion, this modern day legend shows no signs of decline. In fact, it may not have yet reached its peak. Anticipated maturity: now-2060+.

Robert Parker | 100 RP
La Mission really does have its own character. Full body with velvety tannins with hints of berry, gravel and iodine. Some may not like the later but it tells you it’s La Mission. What a wine. Drink now.

James Suckling | 97 JS
The register of notes changes as we head to Pessac-Léognan. This is one of the most open on display, with a warmth to the fruit that showcases cloves and spices full of tertiary end-of-summer-fruit goodness. A beautiful wine, but just a tiny bit brittle on the finish, this is not quite living up to the pedigree that it has shown on other tastings. We in fact opened a second bottle, served in a decanter (the rest were all in bottle), but it still remained just a nudge behind the others.

Decanter | 94 DEC
The 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have tasted several times. This bottle has a gorgeous, eucalyptus-tinged bouquet of black fruit plus hints of clove and bay leaf; a light marine scent emerges with aeration. The palate has a ripe pastille-like quality, dark cherries commingling with blackberry and cranberry. A lovely saline undertow lends sapidity on the harmonious finish. This does not equal the 1982 Haut-Brion and may have reached its peak in the late 1990s, but it remains the best La Mission Haut-Brion since the 1978. Tasted at the La Mission Haut Brion dinner at Amuse Bouche in Hong Kong.

Vinous Media | 94 VM
Slightly rustic, but firm and youthful. Dark ruby color. Beautiful aromas of berries and stones, with a hint of black truffles. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, spicy-stony finish.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Best from 2000 through 2010.

Wine Spectator | 94 WS